Robert Sietsema at Polonica; Lauren Shockey at Osteria Morini

This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets drunk on gravy at Polonica, and Lauren Shockey manages to not turn into a fat tortellini at Osteria Morini.

Sam Sifton approves of Anella: "[T]he food is a wonder: a tight and focused menu of simple, seasonally appropriate food from Joseph Ogrodnek, a talented chef who has been in the kitchen for almost a year." [NY Times]

Ryan Sutton isn't a fan of Lavo: "In a year when excellent Italian in myriad regional forms dominated New York's food scene, this popular newbie hawks marinara sauce (supermarket quality), garlic bread (even worse), big portions (18-inch pizzas) and fried Oreos (these are gooey and great with a malted shake)." [Bloomberg]

Jay Cheshes isn't impressed by the Fat Radish: "You'll never look better than when you're seated inside, surrounded by votives at a distressed farmhouse table. But the shabby-chic space, as meticulously curated as an Anthropologie store, lacks warmth and personality. The same can be said of the earnest, Anglo-leaning cooking. It's painfully on-trend -- homespun, multicultural, Greenmarket, low-fat -- but so short on innovation, this place might as well be an H&M knockoff." [TONY]

Gael Greene raves over Fish Tag, despite a few misses: "After two visits I'm excited to say that most of the food is very good, even wonderful, with a staccato of flubs. But, it's just going into its third week." [Insatiable Critic]

Instead of a review this week, Steve Cuozzo files a rant about all the dining trends he wishes would die, including "silly feasts" like Má Pêche's Beef 7 Ways; dry chicken like at Lincoln; weak tiki like at Hurricane Club; stemless wine glasses like at Osteria Morini; "waiters who push you to overorder by pretending to 'explain' the menu; Wendy's Natural-Cut Fries with Sea Salt; jumbo-sized restos like Zengo; and Williamsburg. [NY Post]

Have a restaurant tip or other food-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.


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