Robert Sietsema at Skovorodka; Sarah DiGregorio at Colicchio & Sons

This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema rides the Q to Brighton Beach for "regional fare from former Soviet republics" at Skovorodka. Sarah DiGregorio finds that the food at Colicchio & Sons "lacks focus and, somehow, verve."

Meanwhile, Sam Sifton was impressed enough to award Colicchio & Sons three stars, deeming it the "must-try New York menu" of the moment: It "isn't perfect. But it is exciting." [NY Times]

Jay Cheshes' BAD experience at Colicchio & Sons leaves him feeling that the menu "suffer(s) from a lack of personality." [TONY]

Steve Cuozzo bemoans the revamped P.J. Clarke's, with its menu "gone loco" and dry burger: "I'll trade all the fancy cattle that roam for a burger that squirts -- and the P.J.'s we remember. [NY Post]

Ryan Sutton likes Highlands, even though "the gastro is overwhelmed by the pub, which is unfortunate because chef William Hickox, late of the Michelin-starred Public, has given New York its only refined Scottish menu." [Bloomberg]

Alan Richman loves Scott Conant, but does not love Faustina, where the food is "incredibly rich and/or strangely complex.... not what Italian food tends to be in Italy." [GQ/Corked]

Betsy Andrews waits 40 minutes at The Meatball Shop for balls that "aren't roundly delicious. The beef isn't meaty enough... But the lamb, a special one night, was tasty." [NY Times]

Gael Greene finds both hits and misses at ABC Kitchen with Jean Georges, which "vows to be organic, local and biodynamic." [Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two also has mixed feelings, in this case about Corsino: "the appetizers and sandwiches are good, the entrées not. Order accordingly." [New Yorker]

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