Robert Sietsema at Taste of India and Thali (Food) Court; Lauren Shockey at Battersby
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema travels to New Jersey's Taste of India and Thali (Food) Court, where he finds that the Newport Centre Mall's options do not disappoint even the most refined palates: "Vegetable commonplaces such as chana masala (chickpeas bobbing in mellow gravy), palak paneer (spinach with cubes of fresh cheese), and aloo mutter (cilantro-laced potatoes and peas) are here rendered with superior subtlety. But look carefully at the lineup behind the sneeze guard to discover a regional dish or two."
Lauren Shockey finds that Brooklyn dining can actually be quite pleasant in her review of Battersby: "Something's different. A peek at the menu reveals none of the holier-than-thou artifice that often mars the Brooklyn dining experience. Bucolic-sounding farm names and heirloom vegetable varietals aren't advertised."
Pete Wells notes that La Promenade des Anglais' approach to the cuisine of Nice is quite nice: "Sometimes Mr. Allegretti's cooking tilts toward the south of France and Liguria, as with those delicious caper- and olive-accented trofie, and sometimes it doesn't. In either case it is so alluring that I began to think of La Promenade des Anglais as a charming and undiscovered seaside resort that I'd stumbled across." [New York Times]
Ryan Sutton thinks the cooking at Kibo kinda sucks: "Kibo's crispy shrimp ($12) could easily substitute as an appetizer at the Outback Steakhouse. Bland chicken teriyaki with asparagus ($14) proved to be a breast doused in what tasted like KC Masterpiece barbecue sauce. Sushi was prepared with overcooked rice." [Bloomberg]
Adam Platt visits both Loi and Saxon + Parole, and feels that Greece's Martha Stewart does an OK job representing Mediterranean cuisine: "As is sometimes the case when dining in Greece, some of the more standard entrées at Loi weren't as successful as these classic seafood dishes. Ms. Platt had nothing but kind things to say about Maria's 'traditional' moussaka ... but my lemonato chicken was flabby-skinned and drenched in too much gooey lemon sauce." [New York Magazine]
Tables for Two tries out Greenwich Village's Whitehall, and really likes that it's not aimed toward children, as was its predecessor: "That space is now a serious gin joint ... so fittingly discreet in its signage that you may walk past it a few times before realizing it's there. It's a dramatic transformation, and a clear win for a neighborhood where it can feel as though Marc Jacobs stores outnumber casual-dining options." [New Yorker]
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