St. Anselm in Williamsburg, Brooklyn Debuts the Newark Dog
The Newark dog at St. Anselm is really a pair of dogs jammed in "pizza bread."
St. Anselm, the younger sibling of across-the-street Fette Sau and next-door Spuyten Duyvil, has been having a soft opening lately, prior to getting its liquor license.
While the bill of fare visible at menupages.com is a wild farrago of organ meats and other strange morsels with names like marrow poppers, butcher's faggots, veal heart jerky, and fried pickled eggs, the interim menu is rather conservative, with only a half-dozen choices and a few additional variations.
The dish that's caused the most buzz so far is the Newark dog ($11)--a pair of Karl Ehmer franks deep fried, stuck in a split focaccia (their name for it is "pizza bread"), topped with deep fried peppers and onions, and as many french fries as can still fit in the bread, which is, sadly, not many.
A couple of California friends sat munching them when a pal and I entered the rear garden, which is the real asset of this place. They were scratching their heads at how expensive it was, but seemed to be enjoying them mightily. For the time being, if you sit in the back yard, you can order beer from a bewilderingly long list at Spuyten Duyvil, which shares the tree-shaded rear real estate. There's no more pleasant place to sit outside in the Burg. 355 Metropolitan Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-384-5054
Next: The other things we sampled at St. Anselm
The "Trenton pork roll" was the only thing on the menu with no locavore and sustainable pedigree; nevertheless, it was delicious.
The homemade bratwurst was a little disappointing--grainy and low on flavor, wedged into its unsatisfactory bun.
We loved the slider, even though we've been slidered out recently.
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