Thanksgiving Croissant Debuts at Momofuku Milk Bar -- Kind of a Turkey
Say grace, and then dive into the Thanksgiving croissant.
I was as excited as everyone else to check out the
new Thanksgiving croissant at Momofuku Milk Bar, which has moved across the street from its original West 13th Street location. Well, in spite of all the hype, it's not really new, since a similar pastry was offered last year at Má Pêche, David Chang's Midtown outpost.
An unidentified blogger was checking it out (and taking pictures) at the same time.
Nevertheless, I pedaled over there at warp speed and plunked down my $6.53 for a taste.
Well, folks, I've got to say I was a bit disappointed. The thing channels all the sandwiches you've made with leftovers after the Thanksgiving holiday, many versions of which have become commercialized in one way or another at neighborhood delis, restaurants that serve a Thanksgiving meal, etc.
So, yes, the Thanksgiving croissant at the Milk Bar seems aimed at re-creating the Thanksgiving flavor experience via bread, turkey, stuffing, and cranberry relish in handheld form. Well, it fails, despite being a noble attempt.
It's way too bready, for one thing, and too little like a real flaky croissant. Now, croissant making is a job for the experts, who have a process of rolling and re-rolling the well-buttered dough so it comes out multilayered. The Momofuku croissant comes nowhere near the texture you find at a croissant from, say, Tartine or Claude's Patisserie.
A look inside the cave of the Thanksgiving croissant
The new Milk Bar is much smaller than the old, and is now located across the street.
In fact, the exterior -- which constitutes the vast majority of the pastry -- is really like a Pepperidge Farm roll. The insides are way too stingy, too, for something to be called a Thanksgiving croissant. I really found just a few shreds of poultry inside the thing, with more tart cranberry relish than anything else, knocking the balance of sweet and savory that one finds in a deli after-Thanksgiving sandwich all to hell.
So, really, it's back to the drawing board. And I really think they should have been more generous with the turkey.
After eating it, I was still hungry, so I went across the street to the old Milk Bar, which is now something of a Duck Bar, and my hunger was way better served. Read about it tomorrow.
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