The "Brazilian" at Project Sandwich in Soho

The "Brazilian" at Project Sandwich in Soho

The Brazilian at Project Sandwich proves to be exceedingly well dressed, shown here in dappled sunshine.

When I heard about a new spot on Thompson Street called Project Sandwich, I wasn't too interested, partly because I've eaten so many newfangled sandwiches lately, but also because the name sounded like a reality TV show--albeit one in which the sandwiches, badly dressed, flounce down the sidewalk begging the judges to eat them.

The "Brazilian" at Project Sandwich in Soho

The small, well-decorated eating area holds only three tables, so be prepared to carry out.

Still, the small collection of internationally themed sandwiches seemed spot-on in their evocation of ethnic tastes, and the sandwich called The Brazilian held the most appeal. So I dropped by yesterday to try it.

The sandwich was humongous, made on a square of golden focaccia that had been split diagonally. The bread was piled with grilled steak something like Steak-Ums, but good nonetheless, having been marinated in something called smoked salt. Next on were pickles, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella (which melts slightly under the influence of the warm steak), and a version of Argentine chimichurri that's been transformed by pungent cilantro and strong vinegar.

The sandwich was $8. Not a bad deal, but I was even more impressed by the soup of the day, a minestrone chock full of macaroni and vegetables, and quite an appealing meal in itself.

Project Sandwich also sells chips and sodas. See the menu here. 105 Thompson Street, 212-625-2388

The "Brazilian" at Project Sandwich in Soho

The chunky minestrone was one of two daily special soups, and quite appealing, tastewise.

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