The Crazy Breakfast Pastries of the West Village's Bien Cuit
Bien Cuit's maple yam danish
While the Bien Cuit mothership in Cobble Hill is famous for its perfect and rather large loaves of crusty bread (so big, in fact, that you can buy half), the new Village offspring has been going whole-hog on pastries. And the pastries are very odd, if you're used to the usual roll-call of croissant, chocolate croissant, and almond croissant.
Bien Cuit's hazelnut bostock
Maple yam danish is a pastry that might have been invented by a geometry enthusiast: a perfect circle implanted in a right triangle. The triangle is flaky French pastry, like the usual croissant only darker brown, while the circle is yam - and not sweet yam, either. The sweetness is provided mainly by the outsize sugar crystals on the pastry, making a nice savory-sweet combination for your breakfast delectation, like putting syrup on your pancakes.
By contrast, hazelnut bostock is shaped like a pillbox. Inside is a loose, liqueur-soaked crumb embedded with a couple of filberts. The lid is glued on with almond frangipane - or so the countergal told me. Not quite as revolutionary as the maple yam danish, but a satisfying feed for your breakfast, eaten in the nice dining area, or taken out.
The bostock in cross-section
Bien Cuit 35 Christopher Street 646-590-3341
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