The Dutch's Rapturous Rhubarb Pie

The Dutch's Rapturous Rhubarb Pie
Rebecca Marx

Rhubarb season is finally here, at least at the Dutch. The restaurant's pastry chef, Kierin Baldwin, is celebrating the perennial in both frozen form -- it appears as a sherbet in her spring sundae -- and as the luscious filling in her gorgeous rhubarb pie.

This may very well be the Platonic Ideal of rhubarb pie: It's got that tanned, latticed crust fringed with raw sugar, a vibrant, sweet-tart filling accented with a wisp of rosewater, and a smooth orb of lemon sherbet to keep it company. There's also a scattering of sliced strawberries and candied kumquat rinds, the latter of which may be the best thing to happen to rhubarb since sugar.

Although its $10 price tag may seem a bit lavish, the pie is so generously proportioned and richly satisfying that you could eat it on its own and call it lunch. That's what we did a few days ago, and hope to do again as soon as possible.

The Dutch 131 Sullivan Street 212-677-6200

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