The Early Word: New Shine, Offering Sichuan and Buffalo Wings in Sunset Park

New Shine is, in fact, a shiny sort of place--brand new and staffed by young people with cool haircuts.

The place touts its Sichuan hot pot and noodle soups on a large menu board, but it also offers Sichuan standards like double-cooked pork, fish in hot chile oil, pork lung in chile sauce, and beef with cumin. Then the menu makes a u-turn into buffalo wings, french fries, onion rings, and tomato omelet, and ends with a multi-culti flourish--Taiwanese bubble tea, shredded ice with fruit, cider, and ice cream. It's an interesting mix, and the restaurant seems to be mainly marketed to and populated with younger eaters than you might find at other Sunset Park Chinese restaurants.

(Actually, you can see why buffalo-wing-enthusiasts and Sichuan-food-lovers would get along--the mix of tart and hot.)

At lunchtime, the place was nearly empty and a steaming bowl of noodles with pork and pickle ($5) emerged from the kitchen in no time. A mix of round, wheat noodles in a brick-orange broth with a load of pickled cabbage, strips of pork, bok choy, and red-skinned peanuts, it was a wonderful, warming lunch, especially with an extra squirt of Sriracha to enliven the broth.

4915 Eighth Avenue, Brooklyn 718-686-1633

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