The Hooker Burger at Galway Hooker in the West Village

The Hooker Burger at Galway Hooker in the West Village

Sit down at the Galway Hooker and find the saints of Irish literature staring up at you, seeming to say, "Why haven't you ever finished that novel?"

Let's get the jokes over with first. Yes, "hooker" means prostitute, but in western Ireland it also refers to a type of short-range fishing boat that might be called a catch or catboat.

The Hooker Burger at Galway Hooker in the West Village

The hooker burger begins with a goodly wad of meat, cooks it over gas flame to a juicy pink, then piles on the fatty Irish bacon, cheddar cheese, and, finally, a fried egg--as if you'd asked that all your favorite foods be put in one place.

Galway Hooker is one of the new crop of Irish bars popping up in Manhattan and Brooklyn neighborhoods that serve a menu conjoining the Irish and American bar food traditions in a semi-upscale pub setting. The burgers tend to be good at these places, and so do things like cottage pie, fish and chips, Buffalo wings, and various roasts of poultry and beef. The Hooker burger ($9) is a particularly rich specimen, salty and greasy in equal proportion, and best sided with the deeply tan french fries ($6), which come with a curry sauce that will put hair on your chest. 133 Seventh Avenue South, 212-675-6220

The Hooker Burger at Galway Hooker in the West Village

The magnificent curry fries


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