The Story of Kolaches
The apricot version at Brooklyn Kolache Co.
After high school in Dallas I went to college in Austin, so for the first couple of years I hitched rides between the two places several times a year. For UT students, there were several popular stopovers on the four-hour ride, including a little bakery in the town of West, Texas (about 10 miles north of Waco, the halfway point) that specialized in kolaches.
An apricot kolache acquired recently at Lone Star Bakery in Round Rock, Texas
Kolaches represent a type of pastry common across Eastern Europe -- though the origin of the name is Macedonian. The sweet roll consists of a lump of yeast-risen dough enfolding a dollop of jam or smear of crushed nuts, often surmounted by a crumbly, buttery, and sugary streussel topping.The Czech Republic and Poland both claim kolaches as one of their most beloved pastries.
Even then, my friends and I understood this treat to be of Czech origin, and there were eventually a half-dozen bakeries that did them up and down the streets of West and nearby towns. The kolaches were available in a dozen sweet styles, but only a few savory, which generally contained different types of sausage.
Kolaches have now spread across Central Texas, and on a recent visit I was able to buy some in an industrial park on the southeast side of Austin near the airport, and on the outskirts of Fredericksburg in the Hill Country.
Now Texas expat Autumn Stanford has established a kolache bakery in Brooklyn, in the northeast section of Bedford-Stuyvesant near the corner of Bedford and DeKalb. Not content to merely reproduce the Tex-Czech pastry, she's innovated, and her kolaches are bigger and more opulent than their humbler Texas cousins.
At Brooklyn Kolache Co., savory types on the left, sweet on the right.
One savory Brooklyn kolache features a cheese-oozing hot sausage.
One of Stanford's innovations is to achieve parity between savory and sweet kolaches, and she offers five or six of each type every day. She also extends the filling purview by putting things like cheese, peanut butter and jelly, and chocolate in the sweet kolaches, while the savory counterparts run to eggs, sausages, and hash browns with cheese. This may be one of Brooklyn's best breakfast spots, and there's a big rear room and garden seating in the back. For when the weather cools down.
Brooklyn Kolache Co. 520 DeKalb Avenue Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn 718-398-1111
Perfect for breakfast: the bacon, egg, and cheese kolache
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