Under Review--Sietsema At Hunan House

This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema samples the flavors of Mao country at Hunan House, where we're told the specialty is "spicy whole fish and fish heads, preserved meat, dried bean curd, and lots of what's inside a cow and pig, too."

Bruni finds his way to Rye in Williamsburg, where he isn't quite sold on the ambiguous menu, oversize bar snacks, and the "unusually extended 'soft opening,'" but loves the "warm and crunchy" doughnut holes. [NY Times]

Restaurant Girl decides that Aldea is so plain-looking so as not to distract from George Mendes' Portuguese-Spanish-influenced cuisine, which can be "sophisticated and complex" despite certain "potholes in [the] menu." [NY Daily News]

Jay Cheshes checks out Terrance Brennan's cheese temple, Bar Artisanal, where "the menu lists a handful of hearty mains," but "the two dozen 'petits plats' and 'amuse-bouches' indicate that shareable nibbles are what this place is about." [TONY]

And Gael Greene finds a home once again for her Insatiable Critic column at Crain's. Her first review is of Locanda Verde, where she doesn't quite manage to be anonymous, but does manage to love everything she tastes. [Crain's]

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