What Happens When Is Happening Now

What Happens When has opened for business. According to its publicity materials, it is not a pop-up restaurant, but a "revolving restaurant installation."

The brainchild of Dovetail's John Fraser, two designers, one brand manager, and a composer, WHW will be open for nine months, completely changing its theme and appearance every 30 days.

This month, Fraser is going in an appropriately rib-sticking direction with a Northern Germanic/Nordic-influenced three-course prix-fixe menu comprising dishes like arctic char with fennel aspic and preserved lemon, potato skins with wheat-beer fondue, and pickled sausage and sorrel. Dinner costs $58 and, if what Feast witnessed last night was any indication, may be accompanied by the musical stylings of a lone drummer.

25 Cleveland Place 212-925-8310

Have a tip or restaurant-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.

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