Why Octopus and Bone Marrow Get Along So Well
Photo courtesy of Serious Eats
We're a little late to the party on this one, but last week, Serious Eats ran a step-by-step on how Michael White creates his fusilli with octopus and bone marrow, a post so detailed and gorgeously shot that reading it is almost as good as eating the dish--and if you're ambitious, makes it possible to cook an approximation of the dish at home.
The nubbins of octopus and marrow--the former briny, chewy, and mild; the latter squishy, bovine, and fatty--combine with a long-simmered tomato sauce and homemade fusilli. At $25, it's not cheap, but it would be worth it to go sit down at Marea, have a glass of tap water and that plate of pasta, and nothing else. In the Serious Eats post, we learn why the dish works so well texturally:
If the gelatin from the octopus didn't bind to the liquefied marrow, the marrow would simply float to the top of the sauce. Instead, the two ingredients complement each other on a molecular level, allowing the sauce to be realized.
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