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10. El Vagabundo Truck Queens, Queens Plaza at 40th-41st Street, Queens, 347-276-4522
This late night truck in Sunnyside, Queens, serves an arresting cecina. Paper thin sheets of beef are cured with salt and par-dried, the closest thing we have to a beef jerky taco. The cooks here are affable and knowing, tucking the juicy, plump cecina into tortillas with a smile and an extra order of grilled onions. The meat tears under the tooth with a burst of iron savoriness.
Like bedfellows and debut albums, we're omnivorous in our tastes, which is why we go to different taquerias for specific tacos -- al pastor here, shrimp tacos there. You want the best cecina? Not here. You have to go to Queens. It is hard to do one thing well, and since a taco has the potential to be a perfect palmful of food, we think it deserves genuine focus. Here are the 10 best taquerias in NYC, each of which clearly executes its vision deliciously.
Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city's best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas. She writes the ¡Oye! Comida column for Fork in the Road.
See also: The 10 Most Important Burritos in Burrito History
Published on August 22, 2014