Food

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BELOW CANAL


CITY HALL

131 Duane Street, 227-7777

Anything that swims is recommended at this Wall Streeter’s hangout that seeks to re-create the (mainly imaginary) two-fisted eating halls of yesteryear. The trio of barrel herringócreamed, onioned, and carawayedóis so striking you can ignore the dull potato salad in the middle. Pan roasts, raw oysters, shrimp cocktails, and, especially, she-crab soup were all flawless, as was the touted burger, much too good for its garnish of iceberg and wooden supermarket tomato. Skip the low-on-flavor lamb saddle and signature Delmonico steakóunimproved by its mantle of blue cheeseóin favor of any of the daily grilled fish. Sietsema


DIWAN-E-KHAAS

53 Nassau Street, Financial District, 571-6369

Ever wonder what fenugreek tastes like? Chicken methióa frequent special at this Wall Street Indianófeatures poultry morsels hosed with fenugreek leaves, imparting a mellow, toasty flavor. You’ll probably never again find the spice used with such directness. (Lamb vindaloo is long on spice and short on potatoes, palak paneer a spinach puree with less homemade cheese than you might like.) As the number of Indian steam tables south of Canal Street has skyrocketed, it is now possible to be rather picky about your Mughal (or is that Muggle?) food, and this spare dining room is one of the best purveyors. Sietsema


MARK JOSEPH

261 Water Street, Financial District, 277-0020

Manhattan has spawned quite a few new steak houses in the last decade. As far as I can tell, most have been mediocre. Some feature gimmicks, like thick toppings or menus listing more seafood than beef. This newish meat palace, located in an area that retains the feel of the old seaport prior to terminal touristification, harkens backward to Peter Luger’s for its model. A recent meal included an order of cool and bracing bluepoints dabbed with cocktail sauce and heaped with extra horseradish; a perfect, cheesy Caesar salad with plenty of croutons; thick asparagus spears saut»ed in butter and garlic; and a sliced porterhouse for two. Only the home-fried potatoes underachieved. Sietsema $$$


(new) ZEYTUNA (V)

59 Maiden Lane, Financial District, 483-0117

This gourmet grocer vends the usual juices, sodas, and sandwiches from their front porch, but on an adjacent griddle find sizzling gozleme (“Turkish panini,” $3.99), a Turkish specialty that arose during the Ottoman Empire as the Anatolian answer to the French crepe. The thin dough is stuffed with either potatoes or feta cheese, both laced with fresh dill and parsley, folded into a square, grilled to brownness, then given a final lick with the butter brush. On warm summer days, I prefer the salty cheese version. Sietsema ¢

CANAL TO 14TH


(new) CANTINETTA

260 Sixth Avenue, Greenwich Village, 844-0282

Joining Da Silvano and Bar Pitti on a tree-lined stretch of Sixth, Cantinetta aims to be the less-formal and lower-profile sibling, while still slinging food in the pared-down, fresh-ingredient style often associated with Tuscany. The prices aim to be less than Da Silvano, too, but don’t particularly succeed. Despite shaky service, we loved the squid-ink taglierini, midnight ribbons in a discrete tomato sauce knuckled with bits of shrimp, and the Florentine tripe stew, so rich and powerful it was impossible to finish the bowl. The open storefront makes for breezy and relaxed summer dining. Sietsema $$


WIN49

205 Allen Street, Lower East Side, 353-9494

Just when you thought Manhattan already harbored every kind of Japanese specialty restaurant that you could find in Tokyo, another unique one pops up. Win49 specializes in kushikatsu, a coinage that designates anything breaded, fried, and skewered, in the combined spirit of the fried pork katsu (simply, “cutlet”), and the tiny shishkebabs called yakitori. Fish, pork, shrimp, potatoes, and even asparagus are all fair game, and you can combine these brochettes with side dishes to form bento-box lunches. Also on the menu is an appealing array of sushi rolls, the best of which is made with salmon skin gobbed with sweet sauce. Sietsema ¢


ZITOUNE (V)

46 Gansevoort Street, Meatpacking District, 675-5224

Central to the menu at this meat-market Moroccan is a series of innovative tajinesƒslow-cooked and subtly flavored stews served in a distinctive ceramic vessel. One mixes cornish hen with preserved lemonƒan improvement on an old favoriteƒwhile others are more off-the-wall: one matches salmon forcemeat with tomatoes and olives, while another deposits a tajine of lamb and quince over bulky Israeli couscous. Best of all is a beef rib tangia, a bachelor’s supper of rich meat cooked with lemon in a Roman-style amphora. Chill in the sedate dining room and watch the hordes descend on Pastis, just across cobbled Gansevoort Square. Sietsema $$































¢ Cheap eat

($10 meal available)

$ $10-$20
$$ $20-$35
$$$ $35+
Price guide per person
V Vegetarian friendly
L Open late (past midnight)

For hundreds of more restaurants check out the eats page.

14TH TO 42ND


(new) BOTTINO

246 Tenth Avenue, Chelsea, 206-6766

Frustrated in your attempt to get into Red Cat after that Chelsea gallery opening? Right across the street, Bottino is nearly as good. Go for the octopus salad, in which the rubbery fellow is upstaged by his tasty olive-oil dressing, and skip the boring salad of underdressed baby greens. Pastas make the best main courses, especially the giant green ravioli stuffed with cheese and herbs and bathed in sage butter, but also consider the baby chicken, splayed and crusty and served on a bed of sautÈed peppers. And while the weather lasts, luxuriate in one of the city’s leafiest restaurant gardens. Sietsema $$


DANZÓN

126 East 28th Street, Murray Hill, 252-1345

It’s so alive with color and filled with goodies that walking into Zarela Martinez’s new place is like falling into a piìata. This lively spot celebrates the cuisine of Mexico’s Veracruz province. Downstairs, the bar serves imbibers mega-margaritas and a range of Mexican beer; it also has a few tables for smokers. Upstairs and down, the menu offers such unusual delights as mariquitas, plantain chips served with their own spicy peanut sauce, barbecued chunks of pork known as carne de Chango, and the state’s classic snapper in a savory sauce of tomatoes, chiles, onions, garlic, capers, and pimiento stuffed olives. Harris $$$


LA PIZZA FRESCA (V)

31 East 20th Street, Flatiron District, 598-0141

When this restaurant opened a few years ago, I admired their ur-Neapolitan brick-oven pizza, but found the attitude pretentious and the prices outlandish. But La Pizza Fresca has matured into one of my favorite restaurants, filled with happy ex-pats waving ciao to their pals every evening. The pizzas are even better than before, with a slightly thicker and more yielding crust and a lusher distribution of ingredients. We devoured a wonderful pie dotted with rich pancetta, purple onions, and buffalo mozzarella, proceeded to rigatoni with a novel cream-and-pesto sauce, then concluded with a squid salad cradled in arugula and flavored with matchsticks of lemon zest. Sietsema $$


SALON T EMPORIUM

11 East 20th Street, Flatiron District, 358-0506

The reclining Buddha, the teapot chandeliers, and the cozy yet quirky atmosphere of this tea salon-cum-shop explain why it remains a favorite of fatigued shoppers along the Flatiron strip. The menu is simple€a few warm items, but mainly sandwiches like smoked salmon on black bread or traditional tea fare like scones, dripping with devon cream. There is also a seemingly endless tea list including 480 interesting house blends. Harris $

42ND TO 59TH


MARGON

136 West 46th Street, 354-5013

The persistence of this ancient and superb Cuban lunch counteróa stone’s throw from Times Squareóis a testament to the excellence of the food and the fierce loyalty of its regulars. Made right in the front window, the Cuban sandwich is as streamlined as the ’50s finned Caddies that ply the streets of Havana, and Margon gets all the basics right, from the pungent red and black beans to the crisply fried tostones. The menu rotates by weekday, and my favorite entr»es include the chocolate brown oxtails, mellow fricasseed chicken, and fried kingfish. And don’t miss the best octopus salad in town. Sietsema


YOSHINOYA (V)

255 West 42nd Street, 703-9940

Following in the footsteps of Teriyaki Boy, this Japanese franchise is preparing an all-out assault on Manhattan. The specialty is East-West fusion, par excellence: the splendid beef bowl, meat like you’d expect to find in a Philly cheese steak saut™ed with onions and heaped over rice like sloughed tire treads over a snowcapped mountain, exuding a light soy aroma. There’s also a chicken teriyaki bowl, a vegetarian bowl, a couple of soups, and not much more. If you want to really go Japanese, request a brown egg and crack it over your bowl. Sietsema ¢

UPPER EAST SIDE


(new) AL BARAKA

1613 Second Avenue, 396-9787

Penetrate deep into the interior and discover a perfect imitation of a restaurant in Marrakech hidden deep within the souk, with low-slung settees and fabric-strewn sofas. Ferried on ornate metal trays, the food duplicates the pungency and style of Moroccan cooking better than that of any other place in town. Notable appetizers include moist and violently red merguez, and zaalouk—an eggplant purée closer to Sicilian caponata than Middle Eastern baba ganoush. And even though the b’stilla is available in the authentic pigeon formulation (farm raised, says the menu), I’d rather have any of the intense tajines. Sietsema $$

UPPER WEST SIDE


(new) EPICES DU TRAITEUR

103 West 70th Street, 579-5904

This French bistro has an intriguing sideline: Tunisian food, including a few specialties you won’t find elsewhere. Foremost is brik, a curious fan-shaped pastry featuring canned tuna and a runny egg that remains hemmed in until you bite down and the yolk squirts all over everything. Hey, it’s good! There’s also a spicy onion, tomato, and red pepper relish called mischouia, and an abundant mixed grill matching four merguez sausages with four fork-tender baby lamb chops. Be warned: The Moroccan specialties, like the lamb-and-lemon tagine, bomb. Sietsema $$

ABOVE 110TH


(new) RENCHER’S CRAB INN

15 West 125th Street, Harlem, 876-6664

A sign warns that the blue-claw crabs are currently burrowing under the sand for the purposes of hibernation or reproduction, and thus you may find sand in their shells. I didn’t, but did uncover copious quantities of orange coral and lump crabmeat once I cracked the shells. Sold by the pound, shrimp done in a spicy red boil are also delicious, offered in their exoskeletons with cocktail and tartar sauces. The menu also lists lobster, king crab, scallops, and clams, in addition to coleslaw and the usual starchy accompaniments. Sietsema $

BROOKLYN


HINSCH

8518 Fifth Avenue, Bay Ridge, 718-748-2854

t’s something of a minor miracle that this ancient Teutonic ice cream parlor cum candy shop and luncheonette still exists just off the painfully modern 86th Street shopping strip. The sandwiches and breakfasts that were once standard shopper’s fare still compose much of the menu, complemented by good homemade ice cream that can be enjoyed at a real soda fountain replete with spinning green Naugahyde stools. Waffles are a more modern addition, a bit dry on their own, but brought to life with a range of gloppy toppings. My favorite item: a scrambled-egg-and-sausage sandwich on toasted whole wheat washed down with a refillable cup of great retro coffee. Sietsema ¢


HURRICANE HOPEFUL

218 North 7th Street, Williamsburg, 718-302-3535

This joint recently morphed from a shop into a chowder bar, and the diverting stuff still displayed all over the walls makes the wait for your order a pleasure. Advancing the nautical theme, a maritime weather report whispers in the background, tattered squall jackets hangs on a rack, and surfboards depend from the ceiling—for this is a surf shack as well. The chowder is of the thin variety, and though it won’t give the Oyster Bar a run for its money, it’s pretty good anyhow. Preferred: Sarge’s clam chowder, laced with bacon and fresh herbs. Sietsema ¢


KARAM VL

8519 Fourth Avenue, Bay Ridge, 718-745-5227

For a small joint, Karam has a marvelously ambitious Lebanese menu, central to which is a series of sandwiches made by rolling a pita around the ingredients rather than trying to wedge them into a pocket. Two excellent shawarma cylinders are always spinning. You might also select grilled mekanek (a cinnamony cousin of merguez), or one of the variety meats, including a well-stewed and vinegary veal tongue that may be the best thing on the menu. The pistachio-strewn rice pudding is a superb end to a meal that might also include green bean lubyi biz-zayt or sesame-studded falafel, always made to order. Only the baba ghanoush proved disappointing. Sietsema ¢



(new)LA BRUNETTE V

300 North 6th Street, Williamsburg, 718-384-5800

Williamsburg’s best bistro offers French-Caribbean cuisine with some exciting and unmodified Haitian elements thrown in. Succulent pork “ribletts”—delicious by themselves—come sided with a blistering Scotch bonnet sauce called ti-malice, and spice-massaged pork loin is regaled with a dark gravy spiked with Guinness. Compulsory at every bistro, steak frites has here been enlivened with an au poivre coating, and there’s also a whole grilled fish of the day for those who like their food more straightforward. Sit in the relaxing front room, or better yet, pick the rear room for its dramatic views of the BQE. Sietsema $$


TAMARI

201 Fifth Avenue, Park Slope, 718-230-5636

Responding to the spate of wildly successful Italian wine and snack bars in Manhattan and Brooklyn, Tamari bills itself as a “Japanese tapas and sake bar.” The menu features an East Village-quality selection of sushi, outdone by a wonderful appetizer of oshi-zushi, the pressed variant of sushi. The tapas range from tuna tartare on a bed of Asian pear and avocado fashionably formed into a puck to a rather woody Korean squid pancake overshadowed by its zingy dipping sauce to a salad of rare duck breast in a sweet and chive-dotted miso dressing. Sietsema $$

QUEENS


LENNY’S CLAM BAR VL

161-03 Cross Bay Boulevard, Howard Beach, 718-845-5100

Founded in 1974, this venerable Howard Beach seafood parlor looks like a radioactive jewel box on the horizon-just down the street from New York’s most bizarre Starbucks-and features excellent stuffed clams, heaped with crumbs and well browned. The shrimp, mussels, calamari, and scungilli (conch) combinations are also worth contemplating, as are the pastas, especially Sicilian baked ziti, which should be sided with an order of the potent garlic bread. A hallway lined with celebrity photos leads to a painfully bright dining room, but if the weathers fine, sit on the deck that overlooks the Jamaica Bay canal known as Shellbank Basin. Sietsema $


(new)O’NEILL’S VL

64-21 53rd Drive, Maspeth, 718-672-9696

Irish pizza may sound oxymoronic, or just plain moronic, but this Irish steak pub with an implanted OTB inside turns out some of the city’s best pizza. We’re not talking 900-degree, coal-fired pies like Lombardi’s, but pizza turned out in a conventional oven with a roster of exemplary optional ingredients by an artisanal pizza maker who knows how to coax maximum performance out of his equipment. You can watch the nags run and even blow a Hamilton or two as you down perfect slices. Finding this Maspeth institution—which I sought after seeing Mario Batali eating there in an OTB commercial—is half the fun. Sietsema $


PUNJABI KEBAB HOUSE V

91-52 Lefferts Boulevard, Richmond Hill, 718-846-2800

Is Richmond Hill becoming, foodwise, the new Jackson Heights? The corner of Lefferts and Atlantic now boasts four Indian restaurants, each with its own attractions. This modest kebab house, with gleaming red and white decor, is the retail operation of a much larger catering hall. It mounts a magnificent $5 buffet each day from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., long on sharply spiced vegetable purees, well-sauced stews, and desserts of a quality seldom seen at steam table joints, including rice pudding and warm carrot halwah, cousin to Middle Eastern halvah. Sietsema ¢

ELSEWHERE


CARIBBEAN TASTE INC.

3925 Baychester Avenue, Edenwald, Bronx, 718-994-9820

The area north of Gun Hill Road is swarming with Jamaican restaurants, and the Bronx clearly aims to give Brooklyn a run for its money as far as jerk chicken goes. Unappealingly surrounded by gas stations, Caribbean Taste offers a version smoked over charcoal and doused with a jerk sauce a little on the sweet side and less fiery than most. The escovitch fish is another spectacular entrée, a whole fried mackerel bedded in a julienne of pickled vegetables in a clear vinegar sauce with plenty of heat. Best liquid accompaniment: the lovable grapefruit soda called Ting. Sietsema ¢


FORTUNE GARDEN

1771 Hylan Boulevard, Dongan Hills, Staten Island, 718-979-6100

Dressed in dark suits, the waiters stand stiffly at attention, then deferentially show you to a table. The somber decor is reminiscent of a funeral parlor viewing room, and your fellow diners converse in hushed tones. Shaped like a seashell, the menu unfolds to reveal the older sort of Chinese American fare, heavy on Cantonese and seafood. But don’t be scared away—the General Tso’s chicken is the best you’ve ever had, while the Fu-chou fried rice reflects a very refined version of that standard: rice topped with delicately gravied ham, chicken, and shrimp. Sietsema $


THE POLISH PLACE

19 Corson Avenue, St. George, Staten Island, 718-442-8909

In a rundown and topographically spectacular section of St. George, this establishment looks like a grocery store until you penetrate into the interior and find a trim dining room and a large open kitchen, where a talented family of cooks toils ceaselessly over their expansive menu. Blintzes (called “creps”) are fresher than you’ve ever had them, and neither do the chunky soups disappoint, including a thick lima bean tomato with little islands of sausage and ham. Offered with three sides, beef stuffed with bacon and a well-browned chicken roll jammed with cheese and vegetables are two of the more interesting entrées. Sietsema ¢