323 Greenwich Street, Manhattan, 212-431-1112

In Dinner Rush, Danny Aiello is the proprietor of an Italian restaurant founded by his mother. Though only recently opened, Gigino’s served as the movie set. Diners will recognize the layout, especially the stairs that descend to the office, where much of the action takes places. Local regulars who realize that the restaurant as described in the movie would never be located in Tribeca still flock to this comfortable spot for its tasty elegant appetizers and big plates of steaming pasta. The rich mushroom risotto is always on the money, and so are the pizzas, especially diavolo, thin crusted and topped with eggplant, goat cheese, and hot-pepper puree. $$


1377 East New York Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-342-5850

This establishment is an eats beacon in a downtown Brownsville increasingly dominated by fast-food chains, and one of the rare local Jamaican places to produce jerk pork. The handsome nuggets are grilled over charcoal and doused with a distinctive homemade sauce. Though the regulars seem to prefer the oxtails, we scarfed an excellent goat curry, damper and hotter than most, served over rice and peas. Also admirable was the copious side of mac and cheese, with lots more cheese than you’d expect. Chef Shorty qualifies as one of the most painstaking cooks in town. ¢


120-20 Queens Boulevard, Queens, 718-263-6767

Sit in the wraparound dining annex and enjoy the Afro-Peruvian jazz ensemble on weekend evenings. The menu of this most ambitious of Andean restaurants also features Argentine parrilladas, but stick with the ceviches and, especially, the hard-to-find sierra fare: tender veal-heart brochettes called anticuchos, the bread-thickened and turmeric-yellow chicken stew aji gallina, and potatoes a la Huancaina, a cheese-sauced casserole that perfectly demonstrates the co-equal contributions of Indians and conquistadores to Peruvian food. $$

—Robert Sietsema