As a tarted-up ode to Jell-O shots everywhere, Barbalúc offers the jiggly stuff in true New Yawk style—cubed and in martini glasses with picks. In the cozy white-and-silver upstairs lounge, which has the most courteous staff around, soft background music plays while boisterous straitlaced men and women sample some of the six edible martinis on the menu. After tasting an awful Americano (be warned: spitting out contents may occur), I opted for the yummy Kir Royal ($8), an extra strong, semisweet mix of champagne and Crème de Cassis in the form of pink shimmery squares. All the chewable cocktails seem like they’re more for patrons who prefer savoring the flavor of alcohol rather than sugary syrups, but still it’s a classy departure from the typically crude paper-cup version any day. And if you’re more of an old-fashioned gal or gent, Barbalúc also has an extensive wine list—the locale’s name derives from the story of an Italian wine elf, after all.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 16, 2003