No need to set off for Athens for the Olympics, which begin Friday, when you can celebrate all things Greek closer to home. Pay tribute to Dionysus, the god of wine and revelry, right in the East Village. Here you can imbibe and delight at what at first looks like a hole-in-the-wall. Inside, clay pots dangle from the ceiling, subtle lighting creates a soothing glow, and dozens of bottles of wine fill clear glass cases. Venture all the way to the cave-like back area, where dented white walls and cobalt-blue shutters achieve a rustic Mediterranean vibe, and get cozy at the oversize communal table, where you can eat and drink as a team. Knowledgeable waiters offer suggestions on what wines best suit your whims from the all-Greek list of rarities. The Galanos 2002 Babat Zim, Roditis ($8 a glass), a fruity and semi-dry white, pairs nicely with the complimentary pita and taramosalata. And the Vatistas, Cabernet Agiorgitiko, a deep-crimson acidic blend, would even make Dionysus blush.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 3, 2004