What does Mr. Turkey Say?


(from The Times)
It’s starting, folks. In earnest. Turkey obsession has officially begun, and this week, the Times gets in on it. Flo Fab briefs us on the go-withs here, and Marian Burros does some research to find that cooking temperature is “nearly as important as breed.” And, health-obsessed as she is, Burros admits you the FDA guidelines will result in cardboard gobblers. She also says you can forget the butter-soaked cheesecloth, but my mom’s sticking with it.

Eat for Victory is predicting the downfall of all this turkey obsessing. The truth is, a roast turkey can be terrible or pretty good. It is never going to be worth the extravagant efforts people make to deny its true nature—bland, at least, and often dry. Ruth Reichl, who was on NPR yesterday, is clearly over it. Last year, Gourmet came up with a new, minimal approach to the bird: put it in the oven for a few hours. Take it out. “It’s a vehicle for gravy,” she said. Speak the truth, girl!