Our Man Sietsema: “Eating these balls is big fun”


This week, Sietsema has outdone himself, discovering and sharing with the masses a noodle shop attached to a fish ball factory on Eldridge Street. Here’s the excerpt that seals the deal for tonight’s dinner, no matter what the plan was before:

“With utter nonchalance he thrusts his thumb into a tubular roll of dough, points it at the wok, then slashes at it with a stubby knife like Freddie Kruger. A strip flies off into the broth, then another and another. The speed picks up till he’s machine-gunning noodles into the broth, methodically working his way around the surface of the cylinder.”

I feel like noodles tonight.