What’s in a Snitch?


Yesterday, Grub Street’s “Mr. Snitch” brought us this blind item about Laurent Saillard, who owns Fort Greene’s Ici with his wife Catherine:

Formerly Famous Restaurant Owner Goes AWOL Overseas
It seems that a certain famously urbane front-of-the-house type, who some years ago started his own Brooklyn restaurant to much acclaim, has recently lost his marbles, abandoning his wife, family, and restaurant to return to the country of his origin, where his whereabouts are completely unknown. The stricken staff and family are doing their best to downplay it and hoping he comes to his senses, but the outcome is in the hands of either God or Interpol.

We brought the item to the attention of Catherine, the allegedly abandoned and stricken wife. By the time we spoke to her on the phone, she was having a good laugh. “No, he hasn’t lost his marbles,” she said. “Or if he did, it was probably 15 years ago, because I always knew him this way.”

Catherine confirmed that Laurent has been in France for a month. In fact, he’s currently in the Loire Valley with some wine-o buddies (including the winemakers Thierry Puzelat and René Mosse and the importer Joe Dressner).

Saillard’s trip has also been spent visiting family. “There’s not much of a story here,” Catherine told us. “Stop by anytime and see me, weeping behind the bar and everything!”

Ici Restaurant
246 DeKalb
(718) 789-2778


This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 6, 2007

Archive Highlights