Sietsema has compelled us to get on the J train with his review of El Anzuelo Fino, a Peruvian seafood spot in Woodhaven. Although he mentions three dishes of “turf” origins, the seafood is clearly the thing, starting with ceviche:
The profuse ceviche mixto ($13) features mussels and clams on the half shell, scrumptious squid, good-size deveined shrimp, and snatches of corvina, a firm-fleshed South American fish in the sea bass family. Interspersed with the biomass are purple onions, and everything swims in chile-laced lime juice, which, in the Peruvian fashion, is supposed to be drunk when you’ve finished the ceviche. Alongside comes a yellowish stump of sweet potato and a choclo—a piece of corn cob with shovel-shaped kernels as big as your thumb. Yikes!
The restaurant’s mascot and star ingredient is the corvina, which is also available in a cooked presentation (which Sietsema calls his favorite on the menu)—a bouillabaisse-esque stew.
What’s the thing unlike anything our critic has tasted before? Go read the review, lazybones.
El Anzuelo Fino
98-01 Jamaica Avenue
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 27, 2007