There are No Rules in Chinatown


When we see a bunch of Chinese people lined up out the door of a storefront whose windows are decorated with mahogany ducks and neon, we “queue up,” too. What are we, stupid? Despite the fact that it was 100 degrees out (don’t you wish we were exaggerating?), and a steaming pile of roast pork was approximately the last thing we needed, we did it for you, dear reader.

At Wah Fung No. 1 Fast Food, Inc., there’s an all-day special: roast pork, duck, or chicken over rice for $2. Where we work, lunch specials cost at least $5 and end at 4PM, when we are sometimes still picking at our morning scone. (We’re not a great planner, you see).

Although the birds looked good, EfV went for the pork, which was removed in gloved handfuls from a vat of “sauce,” (read: delicious grease) because everyone before us in line ordered it. Just like American fast food, this version was: abundant in salt, sugar (there were whole bites that tasted just like caramel), and fat; addictive; and immediately regretted.

Unlike American fast food, it was not designed to be eaten while driving to work. We brought ours across the street to the playground. Where we live, childless adults are not allowed to hang out in the playground. Here, grown men sit alone on benches outlining the sprinkler area, and occasionally frolic in the urban rain, along with a few lucky dogs.

Wah Fung No. 1 Fast Food, Inc.
79 Chrystie Street