Restaurant Girl on Centro Vinoteca, EfV on Restaurant Girl


Restaurant Girl’s second review is in, and over at Gawker, we see our first example of the problem with a non-anonymous critic. We may not always know whether the restaurants spot her, but when she gives three stars, readers will have plenty of reason not to trust her. As my slightly preachy journalist dad always says, pushing up his sleeves for emphasis, “a conflict of interest — or the appearance of one — Same thing!”

The good news is, this week Freeman toned down the body metaphors, but she still used a lot of adjectives and adverbs that slowed us down. Most confusing was her declaration that the guanciale in a raviolo dish was “smoky.” A quick call to the kitchen confirmed that the guanciale at Centro Vinoteca, like all guanciale we’ve encountered, isn’t smoked.

Centro Vinoteca
74 Seventh Avenue South
(212) 367-7470

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 28, 2007

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