On East 116th Street, a/k/a Taco Row, there’s a special someone we like to call the Tortilla Lady. Her makeshift snack bar is set up outside a shoe store specializing in cowboy boots between Second and Third Avenues, and, amazingly, she’s there all year. Her tacos are good, but you must order something made with a fresh tortilla, which evolves from masa ball to pressed, thin wrap before your very eyes. Our pick is definitely the chorizo-and-potato quesadilla with queso fresco. You might have to hold back from hugging her.