We’re pretty sure Sietsema doesn’t fast during Ramadan, but nevertheless, he did partake in the breaking of the fast at a new Moroccan restaurant in Astoria, which is, we imagine, the best part. Ramadan is over now, but he’s still recommending Walima (if not enthusiastically), a relative gem in a city where Moroccan food has never been a strength.
It sounds like only true standout was the beef tagine, which “proved even better than the chicken, a sweet clotted mass of browned onions with prunes laid across the top, each one decorated with a single toasted almond. The meaty bones oozed marrow. While I’d rather eat desert sand than most couscouses in town, this joint managed to keep the chickpea-studded semolina moist.”
31-06 42nd Street
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 28, 2007