Our Man Sietsema: ‘Hooray for BYOB!’


Jason Neroni’s fighting days were entertaining, but we always felt bad for him, being such blog-fodder. Blogs are so mean! Our Man Sietsema has remained a fan, though, and seems very pleased that Neroni has landed in a kitchen—however small—rather than behind bars, without access to pig parts.

And about the pig: At Cantina, a tapas restaurant, Sietsema enjoyed Serrano ham, pork croquettes, and then, unimagineably, something the chef calls pork shoulder “dulce de leche.” Here’s what Our Man says about that: (We think we’ll have to taste it to believe it, though.)

The slab swims, but rather slowly, in a thick, beige pool of semi-liquid caramel, in which saltiness vies with sweetness for dominance. Happily, saltiness wins. Melting caramel in sauce is a science-chef trick, reminding us that Neroni succeeded Wylie Dufresne at 71 Clinton Fresh Food before he went to Porchetta.

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