Loving paté is not a going-out-on-a-limb type opinion to have, we know, but we really do love us a good paté. Those of you who feel the same way should save up your pennies and get yourselves over to Bar Boulud.
For FitR’s column this week, we’re reviewing Daniel Boulud’s new temple to charcuterie and wine.
It was interesting to see that many critics acknowledged that Bar Boulud’s charcuterie is amazing, but nevertheless didn’t give it much love—see NY Mag and Time Out NY. (With the notable exception of The Bruni).
It’s true that many of the entrées are merely skillful, not inspired, and that several of them are not even skillful.
But you feel that the place’s heart (and it’s reason to be) is in the charcuterie, and so it’s those patés and boudins and terrines that should carry the most weight in judging the restaurant. It would be ideal if the restaurant did away with almost everything else and just let the menu do what it does best without hedging its bets that not everyone likes fatty pork molded into slabs.
But that’s just FitR’s two cents, and you know how we like a good bit of molded pork.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on March 18, 2008