This week, Our Man chronicles the rise of Fujinese noodle joints in Chinatown—the earliest incarnations were out-and-out dives, but recent additions to the genre have amenities like actual waitresses. Our Man is at two such places this week, Food Sing 88 Corp. and Best Fuzhou Restaurant.
At Food Sing 88 Corp., Our Man finds much to like. The house special hand-pulled noodles amount to a “a beef landslide in a rich fragrant broth.”
“If you want to eat like a Fujianese immigrant, pick the pork bone noodles,” he continues. BUT! “Don’t order it unless you intend to suck down the copious marrow, which is the best part.”
Onward and upward to Best Fuzhou Restaurant, where Our Man finds enough organ meat and amphibians to occupy him, including duck kidney with cauliflower (yum!), frog wrapped with leaf (eh.) and do do frog’s leg (eh?).
As an added bonus, at Best Fuzhou, Our Man “thrilled to the spectacle of two waitresses wrestling a five-foot eel.”
He also discovered a delicious-sounding dish that he says is a memorable new addition to the Lower East Side noodle catalog. To find out about that, though, you’ll have to read Our Man’s story…
Food Sing 88 Corp.
2 East Broadway
Best Fuzhou Restaurant
71A Eldridge Street