This week, Our Man tells us about a great Southern Mexican restaurant that’s smack in the middle of the solidly Italian neighborhoood of Belmont, Bronx.
Our Man zeros in on the Platillos Tradicionales, and he loves what he finds. The chicken mole poblano:
At Estrellita that afternoon, the thick mole flung off nut and cinnamon notes, as multiple chilies—both dried and fresh—went to work on my tongue. And further flavors continued to unfold as the bolus eased down my esophagus. In the middle, like the mother superior herself, sat the radiant taste of chocolate, with barely a trace of sweetness.
He also enjoys the vegetarian chiles rellenos and the queso fundido con rajas, which came with fresh strips of multicolored chiles.
Alrighty! Anyone else starving now? And what about this?
Cemitas arrive on round seeded rolls that traditionally contain cactus pulp. Inside, you’ll find layers of string cheese, avocado, onion, fragrant papalo leaves, refried beans, mayonnaise, and fiery smoked chilies.
Estrellita Poblana III
2328 Arthur Avenue
Belmont, the Bronx, 718-220-7641
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 14, 2008