Fork in the Road Celebrates Tet


For this week’s column, I’m at Tet, Steven Duong’s new Vietnamese in the East Village. From the look of the restaurant, you’d never guess it was anything special. But it turns out to be a really interesting place, with homemade headcheese elevating the papaya salad, and a jellyfish salad that’s a riot of textures. Tien Pham, an eighty-year-old lifetime cook and friend of Duong came out of retirement to help create the menu, and he says she calls him several times a night to make sure he’s making everything properly.

Here’s Gael Greene on Tet.