Drum roll. As you gaze at the badly limned mountain landscape plastered across the wall in the indoor beer garden, the heaping plate of wurst at Lederhosen arrives, sided with portions of purple cabbage, sautéed onions, and, natürlich, sauerkraut. It’s up to you—at three bucks or so apiece—to pick out your own sausage collection, which will be laid in formation like beached porpoises upon the platter. Your choices run to knackwurst (boiled beef and pork), bauernwurst (grilled beef and pork), weisswurst (anemic veal and pork), bratwurst (Wisconsiny grilled pork), the lowly wiener (channeling Coney Island), and currywurst (a postwar Berlin phenomenon, see The Invention of Curried Sausage by Uwe Timm), and odd man out, Polish kielbasa!
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on June 25, 2008