This week: In which Our Man eats at Cabrito and pretty much loves it. From the tongue tacos to the mackerel en escabeche, huaraches and green chile stew, Our Man is liking David Schuttenberg’s authentic-ish Mexican bistro. And it must be good, because Our Man will not mince words on a place like this if it irks him.
“The joint is nominally a glorified taqueria, and the tacos are big and bold, if a bit pricey at $6 apiece. Never mind—you’re in the door already, and the restaurant’s amazing homemade chorizo probably justifies the price. Tongue is another toothsome taco filling, braised in a pale-green tomatillo sauce that adds just the right amount of acidity.”
Our Man also tells that Cabrito carries those distinctive, Baha-style fried fish tacos, which I haven’t had since I left the West Coast. Very exciting.
The only item that Our Man finds fault with is Cabrito’s signature baby goat—he says it’s “sour, stringy, and somewhat skanky.” Yikes! But other than that, this is an Our Man-approved restaurant.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 16, 2008