This week, my column treks through Sunset Park, a Latin American neighborhood in Brooklyn. I found that the best street carts and taco trucks come out at night (and often work their griddles until dawn).
My favorite was Yissel’s chimichurri truck, where you can get Dominican chimichurris, the awesome, messy, hamburgers stuffed in a bun with lightly pickled cabbage and tons of mayo and hot sauce. Yissel also makes a fantastic suadero taco, superior tostones and fried, garlicky sausages. Her mother is Mexican and her father is Dominican, so the food at her truck runs toward both countries.
Then there’s Tacos el Bronco, which is a masterpiece of space efficiency. It’s just a tiny, silver cart and somehow it holds three cooks, two griddles and two chopping blocks. They only serve tacos, but there are seven options, and they’re all great (except the dryish chicken). Try the chorizo and the tripe.
There are two other great street food spots in the story, but you’ll have to click the clicker and read it to find out about those.
If you go, do keep in mind that the hours the trucks and carts keep can be variable. I found Yissel’s truck to be the most consistent. Other places would tell me in no uncertain terms that they’re there everyday after 4pm, say, and occasionally that wouldn’t be the case. But it’s street food—the unpredictability is part of its charm.