This week, Our Man Sietsema is happy to find Yiasou, a Greek spot in Sheepshead Bay that imitates those ‘estiatorio’ places in midtown where you pay a huge sum to have a whole fresh fish grilled for you. Yiasou offers all sorts of sea creatures that you can choose from, but it does it at about half the price.
But there’s other good stuff, too—Our Man finds plenty to occupy himself:
Anything labeled “skordalia” is totally dope: This mash of potatoes with olive oil, lemon juice, and raw garlic will set your mouth on fire. You can get it plain ($5.50), heaped up in a craggy Olympus surrounded by triangles of toasted pita. Even better is pantzaria ($7), an equivalent quantity of skordalia hemmed in with lightly pickled beets (which offers the added advantage of turning your urine bright red a few hours later).
TMI! Moving on. The only items here that Our Man really doesn’t like are the salads. He likes the octopus appetizer, and he doesn’t mind the Italian-influenced dishes that sneak on the menu, like Sicilian-style baked clams.
But really, it’s the fish that he’s after.
Insist that the old man accompany you to the iced display and show you his stuff….The branzino ($20 per pound, one pound average) is the best deal of all, black-striped from the grill, with gobbets of smoky flesh easily pulling away from the largish bones…Gleaming blue and silver, these beautiful sardines were big and sweet-fleshed. And cheap, too: At $20 for eight (representing one pound), they easily satisfied our crew of four.