Robert Sietsema: One of the crowning glories of Chinese-American cuisine is pork egg foo young, a battered and fried welter of sprouts, cabbage, and pig chunks sluiced with a dark-brown gravy that only European cooks could have invented. Its fusion par excellence. Get the best at Queens oldest Chinese restaurant, King Yum (founded in 1953), and groove on the Polynesian dcor.
Sarah DiGregorio: Egg foo young may soon go the way of the dinosaurs, so chow down on the lacy-edged omelets at 30-year-old Wo Hop while you still can. Its a satisfying tangle of fried egg, sprouts, onions, and delicious pork bitsChinatowns version of lardons.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2008