Robert Sietsema: While this distinction is usually awarded to one of the more venerable parlors in townLombardis or Di Fara, sayI was blown away by the wood-oven pies at newcomer Robertas, located so obscurely that youll be Googling as you go. Made with dough that rises high but doesnt taste yeasty, the personal-size pies turn out smoky, crusty, cheesy, and beyond excellent.
Sarah DiGregorio: I love Di Fara, but who has the time? Instead, call up Luigis and order a fresh-mozzarella pie with eggplant and garlic (walk-in slices are not as good). Gio, the owner, will yell toward the kitchen: Ma, we got eggplant? If youre lucky, you will soon have in your hot little hands an irregular amoeba of chewy, bubbly crust dotted with squares of fried eggplant and strewn with minced garlic, all of it squirted with Gios homegrown herb-infused olive oil.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 15, 2008