He likes it
This week, Our Man Sietsema is eating at No.7, the Fort Greene underdog that has charmed pretty much every critic that’s walked through its doors. But Our Man isn’t easily wooed by simple cleverness, so when he says he likes a place, you know that there is serious cooking going on. There’s whimsy and fun going on in chef Tyler Kord’s cooking, but it’s the good technique that gets Our Man going:
On three visits, our favorite entrée proved to be the so-called roast chicken—really a scrumptious roulade with crisp skin on the outside, resting in a truffle jus that owed nothing to the synthetic truffle oil used in so many restaurants. The roulade represented classic French cooking in an unexpected corner of Fort Greene.
Other good things include piggy head bits in broth, an egg that’s been boiled, crumbled and deep-fried and still manages to have a runny yolk and a dessert that surprises Our Man with miso.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 5, 2008