You only need to search for “Thai” on the Outer Boroughs Chowhound board to realize that Queens is the one to beat. But recently, Our Man Sietsema’s been eating Siamese in the borough of kings. He reviewed Am-Thai Chili Basil Kitchen in Kensington a few weeks ago, and today, he’s at MaiThai, in Sunset Park. All this good eating prompts Our Man to ask:
Is Brooklyn Thai—once a collection of lackluster, sugar-happy, fish-sauce-challenged joints—beginning to be a threat to the hegemony of Queens Thais?
Aaaaand…no. At least not in our lifetimes. Still, the growth of good Thai in Brooklyn is worth noting. And at MaiThai, Our Man finds plenty that he likes, along with a few missteps.
The papaya salad is particularly dope, adding peanuts and miniature dried shrimp to the firm tendrils of green fruit for a triple crunch. In order of excellence, we also enjoyed the duck salad and the barbecued pork salad ($6.50), the latter with a wonderfully rich soy dressing. (The succulent pork contained therein is also available as an appetizer, $7).
He also recommends the whole fish dishes, as well as a shrimp dish with stink bean.
MaiThai is on the Chinatown stretch of 8th Avenue, and is a fun and lively neighborhood to wander before or after dinner.
4618 Eighth Avenue, Sunset Park
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 12, 2008