Af stall B5, find “scallion pie with beef,” a favorite of Shandong province that consists of a flaky scallion pancake wrapped around spears of cucumber and five-spice beef.
At the Sichuan stall, A3, regale yourself with crunchy pig ear in red chile oil, or
mellow Sichuanese pork sausage, or
Homemade mung-jelly noodles heaped with red chiles (left) and tendon in chile oil with Sichuan peppercorns and peanuts (right).
The neat mis-en-place at stall B3 is used to assemble soups such as
this one, which can be had with a selection of noodles. The proprietors are from Liaoning.
Also associated with Liaoning is the miraculous shar bing, a pork-stuffed pancake served with a soy-laced hot sauce. Find it at stall A5.
The Taiwanese (stalls A1-A2) are responsible for this rice-starch pudding topped with scrumptious ground pork and pickles.
From the same double stall swims a red fish pastry stuffed with red bean paste. Unfortunately, my dining companions wolfed if down before I could reach it to take a photo. It’s that good.