Fork in the Road Hates the Snake, Loves the Fry Bread


This week, I review Ellis Bar, a Southwestern restaurant that serves food like rattlesnake and fry bread. Real Southwestern-American fare is a rarity in New York (not fake-y Mexican, but actual Southwestern). So although Ellis Bar is an odd place that does some dishes very well and others rather badly, I give it credit for ballsiness. (Did you know that word is actually in Mirriam-Webster now?)

The main reason Ellis Bar is worth checking out is that it’s the only place I know of in New York to get real Navajo fry bread, a puffy, bubbly, burnished orb that’s often used as the wrapper for enormous, gut-busting fry-bread-tacos. Here you can get yours topped with refried pinto beans and cheese. Skip the chili option.

Plus, the homemade red pepper jelly is awesome–especially in a warm quesadilla with Nutella and goat cheese. I’ll let you think about that for a minute.

Dishes to Order: Chipotle shrimp, anything with red pepper jelly, fry bread with refried beans, jelly-Nutella-goat cheese dessert quesadilla, meatloaf

Dishes to Avoid: Rattlesnake skewers, cous cous, catfish with blueberry salsa, chili


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