Our Man Sietsema is in the Bronx this week, where he’s found a mini Southeast Asian neighborhood (two Cambodian shops and a Vietnamese restaurant) right next to Edgar Allen Poe’s cottage. The restaurant is called World of Taste Seafood Deli/Vietnamese Food, and Our Man pronounces the food “excellent.”
How good? Even the spring rolls are loveable:
So, too, are the cha gio (spring rolls, four for $3.50) way better than
those found elsewhere. The delicate pastry flutes contain a mellow
combo of pork, crab, mushrooms, and clear mung-bean vermicelli. They’ve
been fried more aggressively than usual, resulting in a deep
caramelized brown color and a superior crunch. Wrap them in iceberg
with fresh mint, dip them in sharp vinegar, and rocket yourself to
Along with superior renditions of Vietnamese standards, the restaurant also offers regional cuisine from the city of Hue, of which Our Man approves.
Of course, the close proximity of the Edgar Allen Poe house prompts Our Man to cackle a bit over a basil seed drink that looks like a cupful of eyeballs.