I believe the ‘cue sizzled up here is in the style of the northern Chinese region of Xinjiang, which is famous for its charcoal-grilled, cumin-dusted lamb. The lamb skewer from the cart is very, very lamby and funky, in a good way. But the affable grill master seems to be doing Xinjiang barbecue by way of Kansas City–each of the options (lamb, beef, chicken, tofu/fish, fish balls, squid and hot dog) are dabbed with what tastes and looks like KC Masterpiece mixed with hoisin sauce while they’re over the coals. Then the skewers are dusted with red chile powder and handed over. The bouncy fish balls are also very good. I didn’t try the hot dog, but now I kinda wish I had.
The cart is on Eighth Avenue in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, at 55th Street. It’s open from about 3pm till about 10pm, “but not when it’s too cold.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 5, 2009