Where do I even start with At Vermillion? Despite all evidence to the contrary, I thought it might be good. Although fusion concepts like this, Latin American-Indian, often end in disaster, I was excited about a place where you could get arepas topped with duck vindaloo, or crab curry in a huitlacoche crepe. Alas, reading the menu is a more satisfying experience than eating any of the food.
Strangely, At Vermillion’s sister restaurant, Chicago’s Vermillion is wildly popular and critically acclaimed. I don’t know what happened here, but I know it is a trainwreck–food that’s sculpted into tortured shapes and somehow manages to be blander than bland. Even more strangely, in late December-early January, it was closed several nights a week for private parties, so maybe it’ll find a life that way.
In any case, click the clickity above for all the gory details.
480 Lexington Avenue
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 14, 2009