Fork in the Road at the Little Tortilleria that Could


Yes, please.

The makeshift taco stall inside Bushwick’s Tortilleria Mexicana los Hermanos had a dedicated following of Chowhounds and cheap-eats-lovers for several years, but last year it was shut down by the killjoys at the health department for not being up to code. No one puts a stop to good food like the health department.

But the Lazaro family, which owns the factory, decided not to abandon the taco business, but instead to open a real, health-department-proof restaurant in one corner of the factory. It opened in November, and this week, I review the new, sit-down incarnation of the taqueria.

The chorizo is still the best taco there, and you can still watch the tortillas being made, as two walls of the restaurant are glass. There’s tamarind Jalisco soda, little pots of fantastic red and green salsas, and a comfy diner counter, where you can sit on a stool and watch the cook at the griddle. They’re not the best tacos in the city, but they are very fine tacos nevertheless, and the pleasure of the hot, fragrant just-made tortillas can’t be beat.

Click the link above for the full review.

Tortilleria Mexicana Los Hermanos
271 Starr Street, Brooklyn,

This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 21, 2009



Archive Highlights