Poking around the Prospect-Lefferts Gardens neighborhood in Brooklyn today, I came across Gordon’s Bakery and Restaurant. At first glace, I thought the place focused mainly on baked goods, but a second look revealed a long breakfast/lunch menu: Cow’s foot soup, oxtail, curry goat, chicken and shrimp, red snapper, escovitch fish, beef patties and rotis with various fillings.
While the baked goods looked (and later, tasted) like they had been sitting around for a while, the savory food arrives hot, fresh and totally delicious.
What to eat at Gordon’s (and some Jamaican food porn), after the jump.
If you go for one thing, get this roti filled with callaloo and salt cod ($6). Callaloo is a green, usually the leaves of either the taro plant or amaranth. (Confusingly, callaloo is also the name of a stew that features callaloo, the green.) For this roti filling, the callaloo is stewed down to soft sweetness along with buttery, salty lumps of salt cod. The roti itself is tender, slightly chewy and fragrant.
Here we have a large order of curry goat, rice with pigeon peas and sautéed cabbage ($10). The goat is meaty, bone-in, and not at all fatty or gristly. It’s sauced with a thick, densely spiced gravy that tastes of garlic-Scotch bonnet-allspice-ginger. The addition of turmeric turns the droplets of oil dotting the surface of the curry bright yellow.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 21, 2009
Gordon’s Bakery and Restaurant
711 Flatbush Avenue