Our Man praises a few dishes with enthusiasm:
The best of the uncooked selections is the yellowtail, cut into fat
matchsticks and dribbled with ginger oil, which is made crunchy with
shreds of purple shallot and flakes of charred skin. What a beautiful
picture it made on the plate!
And, Sietsema being Sietsema, he can’t resist the opportunity for a dirty joke:
It came, for example, on cod milt (fish sperm, $16), a dish that
defines just how far the menu will go to deliver novel seafood
sensations. While this may conjure up images of ejaculating fish and
hapless under-chefs running after them with paper cups, the semen comes
in a sac that fries up like sweetbreads. For aficionados of weird food,
Semen, sac and sweetbreads–three words we never thought we’d see in the same sentence in a restaurant review!
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 21, 2009
The John Dory
85 Tenth Avenue