The Times‘ Frank Bruni reviews the John Dory today, and, like New York‘s Adam Platt and Bloomberg‘s Ryan Sutton, he gives the place just two stars. While Bruni makes a point of saying he immensely admires both chef April Bloomfield and sommelier David Lynch in his review, he has less admiration for the decor.
“It’s all very ‘Finding Nemo,’ or maybe losing Nemo,” he writes of it, “because the impact of this visual chaos — ratcheted up by an open kitchen that is a distraction too many — can be to give you a maritime migraine and tug your focus from the edible fish that are the purpose and point of the project.”
As for the edible fish, he says sometimes “Ms. Bloomfield’s revel in richness and big flavors pays off” like in an oyster pan roast appetizer, while other times, it doesn’t, as in the restaurant’s namesake dish, a whole roasted John Dory for two. And even the Bruni finds some of the prices too high.