Let’s forget about foie gras for a moment and dig into a big plate of salchipapas. Like the name (“sausage-potatoes”) says, this snack is a toss of french fries and baby hot dogs. The hot dogs have been sliced diagonally, and assume a comically indented shape when they’re cooked in hot fat with french fries at the same time. And therein lies some of salchipapas’ specialness — the flavors swap off between the two foodstuffs, as the frank fat renders, seeps into the deep fat, and is thereby transmitted to the very core of the admittedly inferior-on-their-own french fries.
Not into them yet? Well, how about the boiled egg on top? Doesn’t that make the assemblage more proteinaceously delicious? As a further boost into the ranks of snacking excellence, a thick milky green hot sauce comes on the side, into which you will be unable to prevent yourself from dipping each and every fry.
Served in a paper cone, salchipapas are a street snack in Ecuador and Peru, but it’s also sometimes seen in Columbia and Central American countries. Find the above example at La Cuarta, a new Peruvian restaurant in Sunset Park. 782 Fourth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-369-4694
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on February 19, 2009